The September issue
September 20, 2009

I have had an action packed summer: six teens and me, in Olhao. ( No time to paint my nails, let alone get a new blog post out) The heat, beach and three meals a day keep them out of trouble. There are a few ups and downs: livid red grazes from a failed mission to rescue a mobile phone, another you-learn-by-your-mistakes- episode with drinks in pretty colours, bags with keys and money left at shops, and spectacles washed away whilst frolicking in crashing waves.

The food side of things is more of a challenge Not that the gang are fussy, in fact they lap up everything from crab to clams but the sheer weight of daily supplies is in danger of destroying the Rolly Rolser shopping bag on wheels. This trusty accessory joins the fleet that Olhaons trundle over cobbles to the daily fish and vegetable market. Saturday is best when local farmers bring their own produce and I come home with exquisite olives, sprigs of mint, garlic strings and brilliant zinnias, one euro a bunch.
I am keen to get to grips with grilling sardines, and hang around peeling white washed alleys where old ladies and fishermen expertly fuss over their door step bbqs. The story: gray charocoal, not too much of it and a cup of water for damping unruly flames. This ensures light crispy skins, rather than the oily black charred offerings if the charcoal is red hot. As for preparation, the daily catch is so gleaming and rigid with freshness there’s not need to gut them. Salad to go with sardines includes our take on Italian panzanella made with stale bread, chopped tomatoes, cucumber, onion , parsley and a dressing with oil, balsamic vinegar, and garlic. Then there are lemon quarters to squeeze over the fish and bring out its flavour.

The teen gang leave with the exuberance with which they arrived, in a whirlwind of Kate Moss scent, suntans, tangled salt hair and flip flops. The house settles back into itself again, with the air of post party relief that comes from from sending everyone home in one piece. I have a few delicious mornings in bed with Alan Bennett’s witty and self deprecating memoir Untold Stories . Then it is planning the Room on Top project for which, 8 months on, I finally have planning permission. The very last little bureaucratic hurdle is the 3 month licence, which should be through next week. More finger crossing.

As I pack away t-shirts and cool dresses, I muse that that it’s one thing to have visual records of Olhao’s unmanicured charm, but another to convey the pot pourri of smells: overworked drains, rotting fish, the waft of a honeysuckle in a hidden courtyard; beery fisherman, lingering herb cologne, home cooked stews, the ozone and saltness of the sea air. They’re so evocative, so of the place, it’s hard to conjure them up mentally but London suburbaban street air seems so bland in comparison, even when the foxes have been having a party by the dustbins.

Back at the ranch in Tulse Hill, the house has been earning its keep and host to shoots, including one for SMA baby milk of feature film proportions (apologies to my neighbours) with baby models, back-up baby models, and crates of plastic flowers; the latter draped all over the garden to make it look more colourful. My son says why can’t it always look like that. I give him the look reserved for similar utterances about things not meeting his exacting standards.
Actually, the house is looking a bit bashed up after all the babies, cables, and cameras. So I am planning to do a bit of tidy up: repaint floorboards, and renew floor coverings with simple tactile rush matting, the sort we had at home in the sixties’. I am also debating one of Atlanta Bartlett’s white country tables from her new online store Pale and Interesting.
The vegetable garden has survived a month of sporadic watering and nurturing from family members who remained to look after the shoots. The lettuces didn’t stand a chance, but the potatoes (Pink Fir Apple) and (International Kidney) are plump; we eat the first earthy diggings, boiled in mint and tossed in butter.

Cherry tomatoes, yellow courgettes, garlic and shallots have all performed far better than I’d dared hope, and I shall plait together a bundle of garlic for my friend’s birthday. Thanks, in part, to Lambeth council: it is their free compost bin that is the receptacle for the nicely rotted contents from the kitchen peelings.

Despite the jolly hard work of nurturing and tending to the nursery of delicate seedlings that started life next my desk, it is pure pleasure to see last year’s bean seeds curling and climbing up the wigwams, heavy with slender green pods.

Even the temperamental basil, that threatened to expire when I brought it outside too early is keeping us in supplies for pesto. The magical notion of producing so much from so little is exquisitely shown by a border of leggy nicotiana plants, whose delicate white flowers release intoxicating scent at nightfall. Weeks of sensual and visual pleasure from a packet of seeds is truly gratifying.

London might not have the laid back charms of a Portuguese fishing town, but there are more than enough autumn shows and exhibitions to divert post holiday blues. I am looking forward to the new ceramics gallery at the V&A , settles and benches by Studioilse on show at Leila’s Cafe, part of the London Design Festival , or booking a table at local home dining room the Salad Club. Don’t miss life on planet fashion in the endearing and irreverent documentary, The September issue which chronicles Vogue editor Anna Wintour’s preparations for the September 07 issue. I am agog because I once worked in an office below the Vogue fashion floor, and was terrified by the svelte things that tended the sample rails upstairs.

It’s the time of year, too, to think about hunkering down with warm blankets and cushions by the fire. I use a mix of calico and cuttings from Liberty floral cottons to make simple patch work covers. See my trusty sewing machine in action on my latest Youtube video which shows you how to make a simple bobbly trimmed tray cloth: an idea that could easily be put in the pipeline for diy christmas presents.
And if all you do is go for a walk, take a bag, the trees are heavy with fruit: crab apples, plums, sloes and so on, for a spot of autumnal jam making.

Comments (8) Tags: autumn, colour, flower power, garden, get crafty, home cooking, homemade, summer

Once again, such an evocative, varied, beautiful and restful post, Jane – it has been well worth the wait! Thanks for bringing us up to date with your travels and your return. It is fascinating comparing your garden to ours in the south of France, and also your holiday to our own life – we are warmer than your home and cooler than your holiday!
Comment by Floss | September 20, 2009 @ 5:04 pmHooray, you’re back. Thanks for all the lovely news… Here in Hong Kong summer never seems to end, so talk of autumn is very welcome!
Comment by Viv | September 21, 2009 @ 12:52 amNow that was a lovely way to start Monday morning. Thanks for a super story.
I went to the Edmund de Waal talk at the V & A last Friday to kick-off the opening of the new ceramics gallery. His installation is just delightful and emotional, and simple (and probably very very cerebral) and the highlight of my week – so definately worth it. Don’t forget to look up when they are searching your bag at the main entrance!
Comment by Cassandra | September 21, 2009 @ 9:28 amYou’ve described perfectly the madness of holidays and coming home… Sounds like you had a wonderful (if at times exhausting) time away, and that you’re ready for Autumn and woolly blankets, and getting back into the routine of things in London…. I loved reading this entry… Thank you!
Comment by vintage simple | September 21, 2009 @ 2:17 pm-maria
Oh my. This is fabulous. I particularly love, “… in a whirlwind of Kate Moss scent”, “beery fishermen”, “leggy nicotiana plants.” I’m bookmarking it to read and see over and over again. I’m glad I found you, thanks to {frolic}!
Comment by liza | September 21, 2009 @ 6:02 pmI love that photo of the bench with all the cushions and the blanket in it! It looks so inviting!
Wishing you and yours a wonderful autumn!
Comment by Haust | September 22, 2009 @ 9:43 amlooooooog time, no hear!!
now i am happy and relieved.
instantly, i was taken by your gorgeous photos and interesting stories, like always. thank you so much for sharing.
enjoy the autumn in london!
i know how beautiful london can be and look in autumn…well, if not raining.
(over here in osaka, temperature-wise, it’s still summer.)
Comment by kt@serendipity | September 22, 2009 @ 1:18 pmI just love your photos — they are so beautiful and inviting.
Comment by Leslie | January 18, 2010 @ 11:43 pm